Tweaking Your Bow For The New Season
It's time to dust off your bow case and start working out the kinks before you climb into your stand. Here are several things to consider!
By Neil B. McGahee
Despite the red and golden hints of autumn yet-to-come, the ghost of summer past has saved one last attack of Indian Summer -- sweltering heat, ravenous insects and tortuous humidity -- for opening day of bowhunting season. Fortunately, you packed spare towels, insect repellent and water, lots of water, to make it through the day.
Sitting in your stand high above the deer woods, you watch as a huge buck comes into view, nose to the ground, winding his way through the shimmering morning heat waves to the creek for one last drink before bedding down. Instinctively, you hunch forward on your seat, waiting for the big whitetail to enter the shooting lane.
At 50 yards, you bring your bow to full draw and wait. At 35 yards, your hands are trembling in anticipation, but you resist releasing your arrow, holding until the perfect moment before letting it fly. Twisting, wobbling slightly, the arrow flies -- right over the buck's backstraps -- loudly impaling a tree trunk. The buck skids to a stop, then bolts for the safety of the woods as you sit there, mouth agape, wondering what just happened. Perhaps you should have prepared your equipment as well as you prepared for your personal comfort.
Preparation for the bowhunting season involves much more than drawing your bow back several times the day before the opener and deciding if everything feels right. Before you hit the woods, you should be confident your equipment is going to perform at its best before you ever release that first arrow.
Actually, preparation should begin at the close of the previous season. Before putting your bow away for the off-season, reduce the draw weight to avoid bending the cam axles, a very costly repair.
In the waning days of summer, compound bows should be unpacked and thoroughly examined for loose attachments, loose strands in the string and cables, warped or cracked limbs and bent cam axles. Using a bow press -- if you don't have access to one, visit your local archery shop -- inspect the cams and shafts for dings and excess wear and replace the offending pieces. Also, inspect the cams for excess lateral movement on the shaft.
A cut or worn cam may damage your string and even cause personal injury if the string breaks. Using a small file or extra-fine sandpaper -- your significant other's emery board is a great choice -- remove the excess wax that has built up in the string grooves, then dab a small amount of graphite-based lubricant on the axle before you reassemble your bow. Whatever you do, don't use oil as a lubricant. Oil attracts and holds all the crud that builds up with use.
TUNING YOUR BOW
Single-cam and hybrid-cam bows are much less likely to get out of tune than two-cam bows, but it is always wise to check all cams for signs of wear on the string and cables. A two-cam bow shoots accurately only if both cams roll over at the same time. If the cams rotate out of sequence even slightly, your bow won't shoot tight groups.
Lay the bow across your lap and mark an identical spot on each cam, then draw the string and compare the rotation of each cam. If the marks on the cams aren't lined up in the same position, your bow is out of tune. You can also check cam timing at full draw, but you'll need a helper to determine if the cams are reaching their positions at the same time. Slowly draw the bow as the observer watches to make sure the cams roll over simultaneously. Often the lower cam is the first to cause problems because it takes more abuse due to improper handling -- most hunters lower their bows from the deer stand to the ground with a string -- damaging the lower cam much more often than the top one.
This type of handling also causes more gunk and grime to accumulate on the lower cam, which can also detune your bow, so you should visually inspect cams for excess nicks and dirt after every hunt from a stand. If the cam timing requires resetting, that is a job best left to an archery shop pro.
Proper position of the arrow rest can streamline the tuning process. If you use a release aid, a nocked arrow should align with the forward movement of the string. The easiest way to check this is to stand the bow on the bottom wheel and inspect it to make sure the arrow exits straight in front of the bow, not pointing to either side.
Hunters who prefer to use a release aid should install a nock point so the lower edge is approximately 1/8 of an inch above the center of the rest attachment. If you prefer shooting with your fingers, install the nock point 3/8 to 1/2 inch above the center and move the rest away from the bow until the arrow points slightly to the left for right-handed shooters; right for lefties. If you use a prong-type arrow rest that has a protective coating to silence the arrow, lightly sand the steel prongs. If you shoot carbon shafts, you should also sand your arrows to remove any nicks in the shafts. Clean all moving parts with alcohol and lubricate with a graphite-type lubricant. Again, avoid using oil.
The deer forest is usually a pretty quiet place where loud clicks and clacks are seldom heard. Many bow companies feature suppression systems to reduce string and cable vibration, the primary culprit of noise. If your bow doesn't have such a system, you may want to consider adding aftermarket string dampers or other noise-suppression products, including string leeches or chubs or rubber "cat whiskers." All will lessen bowstring noise to a point.
Check all attachments, especially your sight to make sure there are no loose parts that will create noise. While you're at it, carefully inspect the sight for cracks or broken pins. The fiber optic tips often found on the pins frequently crack or loosen and should be replaced.
Inspect the cable guard rods and plastic slides to make sure they move smoothly and are free of dust and dirt. If you find the slides are worn, consider upgrading to Teflon slides, which travel slower and smoother, creating much less wear on the rods. If you discover any nicks or scratches, sand the rod.
Next, take a look at the string. Inspect the serving -- the wrap that goes around the string where the arrow is nocked -- for loose or fraying ends. If you find a problem with the serving, you can replace it without replacing the string. Also, inspect the main string for cuts or loose strands, and if you find some, replace the string. Although the newer strings last longer than the old ones, they won't last forever. It makes a lot more sense to spend the money for a new string than have your old one break in the field.
PAPER TUNE FIRST
Paper tuning a bow makes tuning broadheads much easier because it ensures that your arrow leaves the bow as straight as possible. Here's how to do it:
Shoot a field-tipped arrow through paper 5 or 6 feet away, placing the paper so the arrow goes straight through and not at an angle. As the arrow passes through the paper, the point and fletching leave different marks -- the point leaves a small round hole and the fletching leaves a y-shaped hole. Examination of those marks should indicate the entry point and the fletching exit.
Depending on the alignment of the fletching exit to the entry hole, adjust the arrow rest until the entry hole lines up with the center of the fletching exit. Test each arrow several times from varying distances, making small adjustments to the arrow rest and sometimes the nocking point, until you are satisfied they are in tune. Small differences are fairly common even with bows and arrows that are paper tuned, but they can be corrected easily by moving the rest slightly in the direction required to bring your hunting arrow groups closer to your practice groups. In other words, if the hunting arrows group to the left, move the sight to the left.
TUNING YOUR ARROWS
It is important to shoot your broadheads before the season to ensure that they fly well when that once-in-a-lifetime opportunity presents itself.
While tuning your bow will synchronize your broadhead groups with your practice arrows, it doesn't mean your broadheads will hit the same spot as your practice arrows. In order to do that, each arrow must be individually tuned so that all the components of the hunting arrow line up perfectly or it will fly erratically.
A bent broadhead or crooked insert causes erratic arrow flight, so check your broadheads by using a spin test to make sure your arrows have straight inserts. Using a cardboard box with two V-shaped grooves cut in each side at the same height, place a piece of paper in front of an arrow and mark a spot that is aligned with the tip -- this is called the guide spot -- then spin the arrow. The tip should point to the guide spot as you spin the arrow. If the tip moves away from the guide spot, the insert is probably crooked.
Another way to check your insert alignment is to spin a broadhead-tipped arrow on its tip on a flat surface like a floor or table. If the shaft wobbles while the arrow is spinning, the insert is not straight. Repeat the test after installing several different broadheads to determine if the broadhead is bent instead of the insert. Check all your arrows and put the arrows with misaligned inserts to the side for use with practice tips.
If you don't have enough aligned arrows, you can sometimes straighten the inserts on aluminum arrows if the inserts were installed with hot glue. Carefully heat the point -- not the shaft -- while gently turning the point and inserts until it floats in the center. If you are using carbon arrows with inserts that were installed using epoxy, forget the heat; it will destroy the arrow.
Erratic arrow flight is often caused by interference with the fletching as it passes through the arrow rest, a problem that is easily solved by spraying the fletching with an aerosol foot powder. As the powder rubs off, it will lightly lubricate the areas where contact occurs. You can also try turning the nocks until the fletching passes through the rest without touching. Not all arrow rests provide enough clearance; so if these methods don't eliminate fletching contact, consider changing to a drop-away arrow rest.
Bowhunting is one of the most satisfying ways to take a whitetail or any other game. Following these simple guidelines will ensure you are prepared for great hunting from opening day until season's end.
Hope this helps and I hope yall enjoyed the article...
Best of luck to everyone this seaon...
Hunt Hard and Hunt Safe...
Griz...
Well folks it's that time of the year once again. Yes! Time to drag those bows out of the closet and start practicing and getting those bows tuned up way before season gets here.
I have some info for you from Randy Ulmer on how to tune your bow...
Check it out and I hope you enjoy it.
Good Luck to all...
Griz...
Bowhunter: Shooting Tips
Archived Posts from this Category
Wed 7 Feb 2007
Posted by admin under Bowhunter: Shooting Tips , Petersen's: Full Draw
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Most bowhunters are so excited before the season starts that they practice every chance they get. However, once opening day comes and goes, practice becomes less appealing and soon all the benefit they received from months of practice begins to erode away.
Don’t let this be your pattern. Even the best habits disappear if you don’t take the time to reinforce them. Daily practice during the hunting season is the most important step you can take to maintain your form and your confidence.
The strength required to draw and aim in a relaxed and steady way is not something that’s built up naturally in our daily lives. The muscles we use in archery are not muscles we use for many other activities, so they need specialized training to stay strong. The best way to keep your shooting muscles strong is to shoot.
In the same way, the ability to focus on a small spot on the target as you aim and squeeze the trigger slowly is also an unnatural habit that requires constant reinforcement. There is no way around it, you have to practice during the season if you want to maintain your edge.
Several of my friends shoot with me during the summer as we all prepare for the season. They become darn good shots by opening day. They are using perfect form all the way through the shot. Yet, some of those same guys turn back into twitching, trigger slammers just two months later. A lack of practice has replaced all their good habits with the same old bad habits they worked so hard to break. I can’t emphasize this too much: You have to practice during the season if you hope to execute well when the shot you have waited for all year finally arrives.
As a minimum, practice enough during the season to maintain your form. That means you should make it a goal to shoot 20 to 30 perfect arrows every second or third day. Take your time and shoot each one with maximum concentration. Be realistic; wear your hunting jacket, gloves and face mask (if you use one) so you’ll be accustomed to the feel, encumbrance and sight picture that you will face under real hunting conditions.
As the weather gets colder and the clothing becomes thicker, this type of practice is even more important. Don’t try to make your practice sessions easy so you shoot well. Make them realistic so you are ready.
Shots that seemed easy during the summer may begin to seem difficult by mid-season. While practicing, mix in shots from your maximum effective range, and spend the time to troubleshoot and correct any bad habits that may creep into your form. The most common culprits of a mid-season shooting slump are trigger punching, dropping your bow arm during the shot (or right after), tension in your bow hand (or snapping it shut during the shot) and waning physical strength.
Stick with the fundamentals and be thorough. Don’t let any bad habits creep into your shooting now. If practice time is limited, don’t rush through 30 arrows; instead shoot fewer arrows but give each one of them total concentration.
PRACTICE WITH BROADHEADS
Unless you shoot mechanical broadheads and are satisfied that they fly exactly like your field points, you should do most of your in-season practice with broadheads. This will improve confidence and allow you to identify problems on the range that might not show up when shooting field points. Broadheads are more sensitive to arrow flight problems than field points. A slight change in arrow flight can have a big effect on broadhead accuracy but little effect on field point accuracy. So, be sure to use broadheads.
Many bowhunters don’t shoot their broadheads often enough during the season because they don’t have a good broadhead target. There are several closed-cell foam targets on the market; all are sturdy enough for a few shots each afternoon during the season. But few will take the abuse of extended practice sessions.
I’ve tried many broadhead targets and my personal favorite is the Block Target and 4×4 from Field Logic. Morrell also makes good broadhead targets. Both brands are portable enough for you to take the target with you in the back of your truck or car and pull it out to practice during the hunt. Even a pile of clean, packed sand will make a passable broadhead target if you have nothing else available.
BULKY CLOTHES
Thick clothing is an unfortunate reality of late fall and winter bowhunting. It produces problems that plague many bowhunters. I definitely shoot better when I’m warm and wearing thin outerwear. When I’m cold and stiff, I find it harder to relax and settle into the shot. It’s only natural to put on heavy clothing in an attempt to stay warm on days like this. However, two problems result. First, you may find that all those layers bind your arms and shoulders making it hard to reach full draw. Second, thick sleeves often find their way into the forward path of the bowstring.
Wear a thick vest to eliminate layers from your arms. That will free up your draw and help reduce bowstring interference. If you still have a problem, find an armguard. Only by practicing in your heavy clothes will you know what to expect when hunting and only then will you be fully prepared.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
Posted by admin under Bowhunter: Shooting Tips
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Simple changes can make a big difference in archery. These two basic shooting tips and two small tackle modifications will help you cut your group sizes.
Use a peep sight: You wouldn’t shoot a rifle without a rear sight so why shoot a bow without a peep? A peep sight produces a level of consistency that you cannot achieve using only a kisser button. A peep with a large aperture – pushing 1/4 inch in diameter – will produce plenty of visibility for hunting in low light conditions. And it will force you to use the proper anchor point, even when the shot angle is awkward – as it often is when hunting.
Shorten your release: It is a common misconception that you should always shoot an index-finger triggered release aid using the tip (or first pad) of your index finger. This is not the only way to shoot. Another way to trigger these releases is with the trigger pushing against the first joint, or even the second pad, of the index finger. Since you have less sensitivity with this part of your finger, you will not feel the trigger move as well. This promotes a smooth release with less anticipation. Ideally, the shot should take you by surprise and shortening the release’s stem is one way to help you achieve that goal while hunting.
Hold your follow-through: I have preached in this column about the need to make a surprise release while shooting a bow – and I will continue to preach – but not every bowhunter will heed the advice. If you command the release, the single most important thing you can do to greatly improve your groups is to follow through with your bow arm until the arrow hits.
The correct grip: A steady bow arm means nothing if you use a poor grip. The bow hand has to be relaxed and the pressure point between the bow’s grip and your hand has to line up perfectly with the center of the bone structure making up your forearm. If you command the release, you must also keep constant watch on your bow hand. It will be extremely tempting to close your hand at the same moment you pull the trigger – ruining accuracy.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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To be truly successful as an archer and bowhunter you must learn to be surprised by the shot. Consciously triggering the shot or ‘punching’ the release is a nasty habit that will eventually cause serious shooting problems. Squeezing the trigger isn’t as hard as you may think, but you must first retrain your nervous system. Shooting with your eyes closed is the best way to make the transition.
FORGET ABOUT ACCURACY
Start by shooting close to the target with your eyes closed. Don’t worry about where the arrow hits. Spend an entire week shooting only this way – at point blank range with your eyes closed. This is the best way to become accustomed to the feel of a new release method.
When you reach full draw, put the sights on the approximate middle of the backstop (with no aiming point) and then close your eyes as you focus on squeezing the trigger while you pull through the shot with your back muscles.
Closing your eyes pays two dividends. First, it eliminates the fidgety response you get when your pin nears the aiming point. Since there is no visual feedback to worry about, you can learn to overcome this reaction very quickly. Second, closing your eyes enhances your other senses, in particular your sense of feel. Because you are not concerned about where the bow is pointing, your brain is free to focus all its attention on simply feeling the proper shot and ingraining that into your nervous system. That process occurs much faster when you have your eyes closed.
You will feel a surprise release – maybe for the first time ever. It may even startle you – your bow arm will fly forward as your release arm flies back. As you continue to practice, however, it will stop being startling and start being fun. You will begin to enjoy the feel of a pure release. You will gain confidence in your ability to perform this same method under a wider range of conditions.
After a week, shoot with your eyes open while standing close to the target with no sight and no aiming point. Slowly work your way back and introduce your sight and a very large aiming spot. Then slowly decrease the size of the target. Try to maintain the same feeling you experienced with your eyes closed. Go back to shooting with your eyes closed immediately if you catch yourself trying to time the shot or if you feel anticipation just before the release. You should soon be able to control your urge to mash the trigger much more effectively.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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When bowhunters miss shots from tree stands, especially shots that are well within their effective shooting range, they usually commit one or more of several deadly shooting sins. In this month’s column, I’m going to expose these common faults and tell you how to avoid them.
APPROACH THE TARGET FROM BELOW
Many bowhunters raise their bow arm high in the air when they draw their bow and then they lower it until their sight pins are on the animal. If they are trigger-happy, the arrow is gone as soon as they see brown beyond the pins. The obvious outcome of such an approach is a high hit.
Learn to draw your bow without raising your arm to the sky. It is much better to get into the proper shooting position before the animal is even close, then point your bow arm straight at the animal as you draw back, eliminating any unnecessary game spooking movement. If you can’t do this, you are probably shooting too much draw weight.
Finally, if buck fever and a quick trigger finger plague you, approach the vitals from below the animal. This will insure that when you see brown beyond your pin you are looking at something that will result in a quick kill rather than back strap.
MAINTAIN YOUR ANGLES
I hope you practiced all summer by shooting with your bow arm at a 90-degree angle to your upper body. Even when shooting from a tree stand you need to try to maintain this important relationship. Bend fully at the waist to create the downward shot angle; don’t just drop your bow arm. Maintaining correct body angles will also keep your eye in the proper alignment with your sight pins so you will hit what you are aiming at.
USE THE CORRECT DISTANCE
The distance from your perch in the tree to the animal is farther than the distance from the base of the tree to the animal. Whichever distance you use, make sure you use it consistently. If you practice and sight-in by taking range readings straight to the target from your tree stand, make sure you do the same thing when hunting.
USE A PEEP SIGHT
The relationship between your eye, anchor point and sight pin has to remain constant regardless of awkward or unfamiliar shooting positions. If you aren’t practicing by the hour from tree stands (and few bowhunters are) you are probably inconsistent in this department. A peep sight will help restore this critical consistency. Choose one with a large opening to maximize the amount of light that reaches your eye in low visibility situations.
Attention to these four aspects of shooting form will help eliminate the most common miss in tree stand hunting.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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I have spent my entire archery career worrying about the small differences that make one bow more accurate than another. Here is a little of what I have learned.
BRACE HEIGHT
When you shoot a bow with a brace height over 7 inches, the arrow gets off the string more quickly offering less time for your bow hand to spoil the shot. But, more importantly, the riser geometry itself is simply more stable. The grip is farther forward relative the cams and this makes the bow less sensitive to bow hand torque.
There are always tradeoffs. As a bow’s brace height goes up, its ability to store energy goes down and so does its arrow speed. But, I’m willing to give up a little speed to gain more accuracy. If you want to get some of that speed back there are plenty of lightweight carbon arrow options available.
CAM DESIGN
Highly aggressive cams accelerate an arrow more violently than the soft cams and round wheel bows of the past. When you dump that much energy into an arrow all at once, a rough release or a slight nock travel variation in the bow will destabilize the arrow more than would occur with a softer cam. This is why I don’t shoot a radical cam.
LENGTH
Unless you’re faced with cramped quarters, I recommend a moderately long bow for greater forgiveness. I’ve found that I shoot best with a bow that measures 37 to 40 inches between the axles. Anything shorter becomes slightly more critical while anything longer requires long limbs that are generally slower.
MASS WEIGHT
Being primarily a western hunter, I’m willing to trade a little forgiveness for reduced weight. I commonly hunt for up to 25 straight days in the mountains. Shaving a pound or two off the bow is a definite advantage on long stalks. If most of my hunting was done from tree stands, I’d carry a bow that weighed seven or eight pounds with accessories. Moreover, I’d use a 12 inch stabilizer to further improve forgiveness.
Given the fact that you can carry a laser rangefinder there is little need for an aggressive bow firing an arrow with a bullet flat trajectory. A bow that will shoot very accurately under the widest range of conditions is ideal. A forgiving bow, rather than a fast bow, is the best choice for most bowhunters.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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One of the most important things you can do during the off-season is to get your bow sighted-in perfectly with a pin scheme that compliments the way you hunt. Now is the time to make any major changes.
SIGHT-IN DISTANCES
The number of pins you use is strictly a personal matter, as is the yardages for which you set them. Many whitetail hunters favor only one pin set at 20 yards. I think this is a mistake unless all your shots are going to be less than 25 yards. A single pin introduces too much guesswork with longer shots. One pin set for 25 yards will work well for all shots up to 30 yards. It will give you the greatest margin for error when aiming at the center of kill zone. For shots that are less than 15 yards, you must remember to aim low. Practice will quickly reveal the limitations of this pin scheme.
If you are likely to shoot past 30 yards, you need at least two pins – possibly three. Set two pins for 25 and 35 yards or three pins for 20, 30 and 40 yards. I set my pins at 20 yard increments so I have fewer pins to count and a less obstructed sight window. However, some people don’t like setting pins more than 10 yards apart because they say too much guesswork is required when gapping for between-pin distances.
A moveable pin sight with a three-pin sight head (instead of a single pin) is another good option. Leave the slide set at the shortest range setting while waiting or stalking. If the animal is at some in-between range for which you have no pin, and if you have plenty of time, you can move the sight to the exact range and aim dead on.
HOW TO SET THE PINS
Many bowhunters make the mistake of sighting-in their bows too quickly. In my experience, it takes several days of regular shooting before you know your pins are properly set. Variations in shooting form can occur and they must be averaged over time or you will chase your mistakes back and forth across the target. Look for the center of each group and after several groups you’ll see a trend developing. Move your pins accordingly: up if you are hitting high, left if you are hitting left, etc.
You usually only get one shot at an animal and you get no warm up shots. So theoretically you should be sighting in your bow for your first shot only. If your impact point tends to change as you warm up, keep your sight set for that first arrow.
Anytime you change your sight picture you need many weeks of practice to make the new look and method instinctive. Make these important changes now so you are ready to go by hunting season.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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As a bowhunter, you have two reasons to scrutinize how you draw your bow. First, you should make every effort to reduce game-spooking motion. Second, you should strive to use the proper form so that when you hit full draw you are in the best position to make an accurate shot.
DON’T SPOOK THEM
Game animals have tremendous peripheral vision. For example, a whitetail deer has 320 degrees of visual coverage. You won’t get away with extra movement when attempting to draw your bow.
If you must reach your bow arm skyward in order to draw your bow, your draw weight is too high or you have learned bad habits on the practice range. Use the same draw sequence on the range that you would use if a buck were standing 20 yards away – point the bow straight at the target and draw the string straight back.
PROPER FORM STARTS BEFORE YOU DRAW
Any time you have to hand control of the draw force from one muscle group to another you introduce the possibility of an incomplete hand-off that will result in inconsistent shooting. Since you want your back muscles to hold the string at full draw, engage them fully in the process of drawing the string. Your shoulders will also carry some of the weight. Don’t try to draw the string with the muscles of your arm. You want these to remain as relaxed as possible throughout the shot.
I see many novice bowhunters re-grip their bows once they get to full draw. This is a big mistake. The only way you can be sure your grip is the same on every shot is to take the correct grip before you start to draw and then maintain it until the arrow is gone.
Repositioning major joints is another mistake. For example, don’t draw with the elbow of your release arm low and then raise it at full draw. Don’t draw with the shoulder of your bow arm high and then try to lower it at full draw. Instead, achieve the proper form right from the beginning of the draw and maintain it all the way through the shot.
The shot starts with the draw. Get started correctly and you will have the best opportunity for an accurate shot.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
Posted by admin under Bowhunter: Shooting Tips
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Take a paper airplane and bend the nose to the left. When you throw it, you know it’s going to veer left. To make it fly straight again, the nose must be perfectly lined up with the rest of the airplane. Hunting arrows work the same way. If the broadhead isn’t well constructed, or is pointed slightly to the side because of a bad insert, the arrow will veer off-line.
To make sure that every arrow in your quiver hits the same exact spot, you have to be extremely precise when aligning all the components. Of course, your shafts need to be straight. For this reason, it’s best to save a few new shafts for hunting season. With today’s press-in nock systems, the nock is rarely a concern. However, as mentioned, the broadhead and insert are the real troublemakers.
The best way to check head alignment is with a special fixture. You can easily make your own by taking a medium-sized cardboard box and notching out two opposing sides (about a foot apart) so you can rest the arrow in the notches.
As you slowly turn the arrow, compare the tip of the broadhead to some kind of grounded reference point. A pencil mark on the back of a ruler or board works fine. The tip of the broadhead has to remain perfectly in place relative to the reference point as the arrow turns. If it ascribes even a small circle, set it aside.
If, after testing all your arrows, you have enough straight ones for hunting, you’re all set. If not, you’ll need to do a little more work. Swap out your broadheads with a few others to make sure the head isn’t causing the problem. If it is, it’s time to invest in some new broadheads (I’ve had great luck with Rocky Mountain Broadheads. There are several other quality brands as well.) If not, the problem is with your inserts. You can either fine-tune their alignment by heating the end of the arrow with a torch and repositioning the insert (assuming hot melt glue was used to install them), or you can simply replace them with inserts of better quality. Aluminum inserts from Easton and composite inserts from Arizona Archery Enterprises have worked well for me.
By combining a well-tuned bow with perfectly tuned arrows, you will enjoy pinpoint accuracy with almost any well-made broadhead, even at relatively high arrow speeds.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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Controlling string stretch, peep sight rotation and serving separation are important goals when setting up a bow. You may choose to make your own strings some day, but short of that, if you want a string that doesn’t change throughout the season, you should take the following four steps to fine-tune the one that came with your bow. (Make sure your bowstring is made from a non-stretch material. There are a few good ones on the market. I have had great luck with BCY string material.)
First, shoot the bow 300 to 500 times until the string stretches and seats fully. Most of the total stretch over the string’s lifetime will occur in these first several hundred shots. You may even choose to let the bow sit out on a hot sunny day just to make sure that all the wax in the string cooks out and it reaches its full length.
Second, remove the serving and then take the string off the bow. To the best of your ability, try to separate the strands until you’ve identified the very center of the string. You will see this most clearly near the end serving. When the string was made it was a full loop that was served together at the ends to produce the string. Finding the center will help you place your peep sight in a way that reduces rotation. Place a twist tie in the middle of the string close to where you’d like your peep to serve as an indicator.
Third, twist the string. The top custom string makers recommend a full twist per inch of string length to produce the greatest stability. Twisting the string will also help keep your peep sight in position by preventing it from moving up and down the string.
Fourth, put the string back on the bow and apply new center serving. Use a very durable serving thread (I use BCY’s Halo). It’s important that you wrap the serving in the same direction as the twists in the string. That way you make the bundle tighter, minimize serving separation and reducing peep rotation.
Finally, apply the serving very tightly. This will assure that it doesn’t slip. I even use smaller diameter serving thread and double serve my strings to assure that the serving won’t separate, but that may be overkill for most archers.
Shoot the bow a few times to set everything and then install your peep sight right in the middle of the string. If the peep isn’t coming back properly, twist one end of the string a half-turn at a time until the peep is acting better.
Your string may well be the most important accessory on your bow. If you take care of it, it will take care of you.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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Short bows have become increasingly popular during the past few years. They’ve got their place. When hunting in ground blinds or when tucked into tight quarters in a tree stand their compact dimensions help to keep the limbs clear of obstacles. Also, when you wear heavy clothing, the more acute string angle of these bows helps to keep it away from clothing as well as the binoculars hanging from your neck.
While these bows have much to offer, I personally don’t prefer to shoot a super-short bow. The shortest bow I shoot is Hoyt’s 36 inch VorTec. To handle the micro bows as accurately as longer models you need to maintain excellent form, a few aspects of which are especially critical.
If you’ve ever shot a slingshot you know that your pressure point on the grip is critical to consistency. Being off by a small amount creates poor accuracy. The same is true of short bows. How you take your grip and the way you apply pressure with your bow hand (high wrist vs. low wrist) has to be exactly the same on every shot. Pay particular attention to this aspect of your pre-shot routine and you’ll become more consistent when shooting a short bow.
Many bowhunters prefer to touch their nose to the string at full draw to form a secondary anchor point. When you try to do this with a super short bow, the acute string angle will force you to either draw the bow past your normal anchor point or tip your head unnaturally to meet the string. It is possible, when shooting such a bow, that you won’t be able use your nose as a secondary anchor point. Be aware of this fact and keep an open mind when establishing a new set of full draw checkpoints.
Some short bows have a low brace height, aggressive cams and high letoff. These elements comprise the recipe for disaster: difficult shooting that makes consistent accuracy under demanding hunting conditions all but impossible. When choosing a short bow, steer clear of these unforgiving design elements. A short bow with a moderate cam, 65% letoff and a brace height over 7 inches can be shot nearly as accurately as a bow 6 to 8 inches longer.
Bowhunter: Shooting Tips
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Mon 5 Feb 2007
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When a buck comes in quickly chasing a doe or jumps out of a standing cornfield right in front of your tree stand, you have to be able to shoot fast and straight. I learned a lot about shooting fast while preparing for the past 4 ESPN Great Outdoor Games. The archery event requires all contestants to shoot fast: 4 arrows in less than 20 seconds if you want to be competitive. The specialized practice I undertook for that event carried over into the fall and has helped me handle quick shots in the field.
Here is what I’ve learned about tackle and technique that will also make you more effective on quick shots.
THE BOW
I want to be able to turn my bow at least 45 degrees either way without the arrow falling off the rest. That way I am sure that if I have to jerk the string back for a quick shot, the arrow will stay on the rest.
Second, use a nocking system that applies a small amount of downward pressure on the arrow to keep it firmly on the rest as you yank the string back. Many bowhunters attach their release to the string below the arrow’s nock. This is not my first choice but it does achieve the needed down pressure. I like to use a nocking loop, but I first tie a 1/8-inch wide nock point below the arrow. The bottom knot of my loop goes below this point and other end ties above the arrow. This puts the release below the centerline of the arrow assuring slight downward pressure on the arrow rest.
A release aid with a quick attach post for easy hookup is critical. ( I use the TRU Ball Short and Sweet).
A large peep is the final piece of gear that permits fast shooting. Your eye will automatically center the pin in the peep even if it’s big. I can nearly stick a pencil eraser through the peep on my hunting bow.
HOW TO PRACTICE
Practice getting on the target fast and then pull the trigger without punching it. From draw to release, give yourself a time limit such as three to four seconds. Just make sure you don’t start punching the trigger. Practice only a few fast shots each day and follow them up right away with several slower paced shots to reestablish the feel of proper form before putting the bow away.
Despite the need to work fast, don’t cut into the time needed to pick an aiming spot. This single step keeps fast shots from becoming wild shots. Most importantly, only shoot fast when you absolutely must. The vast majority of your hunting shots should be squeezed off.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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Many archers believe that the form used by professional 3-D shooters and top target archers is somehow not applicable to hunting. I beg to differ. A good shot is a good shot regardless of what is on the other side of the pin. The techniques used to win 3-D tournaments are the same ones that will produce the best shots in the field.
Most top 3-D shooters would not be caught dead punching the trigger, yet this fault is very common among bowhunters. Target archers rely on a surprise release to assure that their left side doesn’t know what their right side is doing. There is no anticipation as the archer simply aims until the bow fires the arrow. I’ve seen bowhunters in many hunting camps pull the trigger in a conscious attempt to time the shot. This method is fraught with peril. Target panic is virtually unavoidable and it will seriously degrade your accuracy and your enjoyment of the sport.
Most of us have hunted with a rifle at one time or another. You didn’t mash the trigger just because it was a hunting gun, did you? Of course you didn’t. Whether target shooting or hunting, we all intuitively realize that a rifle trigger must be squeezed so the shot takes us by surprise. It is exactly the same with a bow.
Here are a few simple tips that will help you shoot your hunting release more effectively. If you shoot an index trigger model, don’t try to work the trigger with your fingertip. Get a deeper bite – up to your first joint. Your finger should take up an increasing amount of the draw force as you pull through the shot using your back muscles.
If you shoot a thumb-trigger release, anchor the pad of your thumb tip on the side of your index finger and pull through the shot with the last three fingers of your release hand. This will naturally rotate the release and force the trigger into the base of your thumb causing it to fire unexpectedly.
Make it your goal to squeeze off a surprise release with every shot you take. Whether practicing in your backyard or shooting at a big buck this fall, it is the best way to shoot a bow.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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When shooting game, choosing the best point of aim is not as simple as you might believe. Bowhunters sometimes don’t even handle broad side shots properly. As the angle of the shot changes, the opportunities for a humane kill are affected and your aiming point must change.
Imagine 2 horizontal lines cutting the animal’s torso in thirds. Assuming you are on the same level as the animal, aim for the line between the lower third and the middle third, about two to five inches (depending on whether it’s a deer or a moose) behind the front leg. In other words, the best aim point is only 33% of the way up the animal’s body.
It is tempting to aim higher, close to the center of the chest. That offers the greatest margin for error, right? Wrong. Aiming this way is a mistake. When I was in college I spent a year studying animal anatomy for 3 hours a day. The center of the chest is not the center of the lungs. Trust me, the lungs in most animals are lower in the chest cavity than most bowhunters realize. Shooting too high is a common mistake – maybe the most common one made when choosing an aiming point.
When the shot angle changes, you have to change your aim point. Ideally, one thing should always stay the same: the arrow should pass through a point right at the physical center of the animal’s lungs. Imagine this central point and pick an aim point that will hit it. When the animal is angling away, this will bring the aim point back, when you are in a tree stand this will raise the aim point higher on the animal’s side.
A tough shot selection dilemma occurs when the animal is angling toward you. In this case, when you project an aim point that will put the arrow through center of the lungs, the point falls on the shoulder. This is a red light situation. Ethical bowhunters know it is never a good idea to intentionally aim for the shoulder and that tempts some to aim just behind it. Unfortunately, unless the angle is very slight, aiming behind the shoulder will produce only a liver hit at best and probably a paunch hit. Avoid this poor shot. As a rule, pass up all shot angles quartering-toward you and wait for a better opportunity. Often your reward will come only moments later.
Knowing when to shoot and when to wait is one sign of maturity in a bowhunter. Be patient and pick your aim point carefully.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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Think of your bow arm as an inanimate pole over which you have no control. It just sticks out there at a 90-degree angle to your upper body. Pretend that you cannot move it independently. Your fingers will not move and neither will your hand or forearm. If you want to adjust your aim, you have to move your entire upper body. For example, suppose when you reach full draw and settle into a solid position that your sights are above the spot you want to hit. Rather than dropping your bow arm, bend at the waist. This maintains the important 90-degree relationship.
If your sights are right or left of the mark, turn at the waist to adjust your aim. Do not be tempted to move your bow arm independently of your upper body. That will cause a break down in shooting form. It is far better to let the larger muscles of your legs, hips and waist control where your bow is pointed.
Here are two more tips that will help you create a rock solid bow arm.
UNLOCK YOUR ELBOW
Your bow arm needs to be relaxed at full draw to permit steady aiming. Tension will translate into a jumpy sight pin. By simply unlocking your elbow, even if only slightly, you may reduce the tension in your bow arm and turn it into a shock absorber. You can also bend your elbow more if you choose, without giving up accuracy. Some bowhunters who hunt in cold climates shoot with a more dramatically bent elbow in order to accommodate thick clothing.
If you decide to shorten your draw length by bending your elbow, you should know two things. First, your arrow speed and penetration energy will both go down because you are reducing your bow’s stored energy. Second, your elbow must point more or less toward the ground to keep from hurting your accuracy.
A LOW SHOULDER
Occasionally I see shooters permit the draw force of the bow to push the shoulder of their bow arm upward and back.
This is not good form. Do not permit your shoulder to lift. Keep your upper arm resting down and relaxed, hanging on the shoulder. When your shoulder comes up out of this alignment, you must rely on your muscles to keep the arm steady. These muscles are not as stable as the bones of the shoulder.
Your bow arm is an important part of the shot, yet bowhunters often overlook its proper function. Keep the arm and shoulder properly aligned with your upper body and keep them relaxed and you will shoot much better.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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Maximum range is related to many factors that change with each archer and with each hunting situation. It is impossible to offer a broad benchmark that applies to everyone. Instead, here are two shooting games that will help you discover your personal maximum range while having a lot of fun at the same time.
WHEN THE DISTANCE IS KNOWN
Get some buddies together and set out a few 3-D targets in natural hunting conditions. Take turns picking the shots. You don’t want them to be easy but don’t be ridiculous either. In other words, keep the vital areas exposed.
You get 12 seconds from the time you reach the designated “stake” until the arrow must be fired. You can use your rangefinder but only after you are on the clock. Distractions of all kinds are encouraged, but touching the shooter is off limits. Keep your score (10 for the ring, 8 for the vitals and 5 for the rest of the animal) along with the actual distance of each shot and the target type (deer, elk, etc.). When the round is over, you can study the score sheet to determine your maximum range under “hunting” conditions on the types of animals you pursue. Note the distance to any target where you scored less than eight; that distance is beyond your maximum range.
This exercise is great fun and the best way I know to improve your shooting skills for real hunting conditions.
MAXIMUM RANGE WITHOUT A RANGEFINDER
Make a very slight change to the game. Keep the time limit and the all-important pressure-inducing trash talk, but nix the rangefinder. After you shoot, write down your score, the target type and your range estimate for that shot (not the actual distance). Study your score sheet when the game is over. The estimated distances to targets where your score was less than eight exceed your maximum range. When you estimate a shot in the field that is beyond this range you must either take the time to pull up your rangefinder or pass on the shot.
You will quickly learn that your maximum range without a rangefinder is considerably less than your maximum range with one.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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Two challenges face bowhunters trying to make a good shot late in the season. First, shooting form degrades with a lack of regular practice. Most bowhunters are gung-ho heading into the season, but once they start hunting they spend less time in front of the target. The departure of daylight savings time also limits the opportunities to practice in the backyard after work. As a result, shooting form gradually decays as the season progresses. By the late season, it is in disarray and any shooting faults that plagued you during the early summer will be back again.
Ideally, you should shoot at least three times per week to maintain strength and form, but even if you only get off 15 arrows in your garage before work a few mornings a week, you should be ready for weekend hunts.
The heavy clothing you need to keep warm creates the second shooting challenge. Thick sleeves and bulky clothing around the chest may interfere with the bowstring during the shot. I have a friend who claims he missed a Boone & Crockett whitetail late in November several years back because the string hit his sleeve. (Why are they always Boone & Crockett bucks when they get away?) As the season progressed, he continued to increase the thickness of his outerwear until finally he resembled the Michelin Man. He never bothered to practice in his heavy clothes.
Practice with your hunting clothes on whenever you can and especially when you add layers or change to a set of thicker outerwear. You’ll discover problems before they cause you to miss an important shot.
Heavy clothing is restrictive. It is hard to draw your bow when wearing several layers of clothing and your draw length will tend to collapse a little. I often use a shorter draw length bow on late season trips for just that reason.
During the cold season, draw the bow several times during the day to keep your muscles warmed up and to familiarize yourself with the feel of all that clothing at full draw.
Finally, facemasks will change your anchor point slightly and that will move the peep sight away from your face changing the feel of the shot. Practice with your facemask on as much as possible. You may look like a nutcase shooting in the backyard wearing a ski mask and a thick camo jacket, but you will be ready when the long season finally yields up a shot.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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As it accelerates, the tail of an arrow carrying three soft vanes resembles a goose flapping its wings. This is not ideal. Stiff fletchings were taboo in the days before drop-away arrow rests, but they make a lot of sense now.
When an arrow fishtails or porpoises, the last thing you want your fletching to do is flap around. That is exactly what soft vanes do. It is much better for the fletching to hold its shape and resist the sideways flow of air, and in so doing bring the arrow under control more quickly and consistently.
UNDERSTANDING FEATHERS
Feathers are perfectly suited as fletching because they flatten easily if they hit your arrow rest, but they hold their shape doggedly if you press them from the side. These are the two reasons that feathers are more forgiving than vanes.
Weight is also an issue. If you replace four-inch vanes with four-inch feathers, you remove 20 grains from the back of the arrow. You can now remove 20 grains from the front of the arrow without significantly changing the arrow’s balance point. The arrow is now forty grains lighter and as much faster. Removing weight from the ends of the arrow has the added benefit of also making it act stiffer. In my experience, a stiffer acting arrow usually flies more consistently and groups better for release shooters.
Once I’ve tuned my bow, almost nothing will tighten my groups like feather fletching. Put a set of four-inch helical feathers on your fixed blade broadhead tipped hunting arrows and watch your groups shrink.
Yet, despite my praises for feathers, there are also plenty of reasons to hate them. They’re noisy in the quiver and they’re noisy in flight. Feathers collapse when they get wet and lose their ability to steer the arrow - and they are fragile. You’ll replace your feathers three times for every time you replace your vanes.
STIFF VANES ARE THE FUTURE
Once shunned, stiff plastic vanes are making a comeback. One example is the Speed Flyte by AAE and the Blazer by Bohning. They are lightweight and stiffer than most vanes. I believe this is the direction of the future. Expect to see many stiff vane options in the coming years.
Feathers may be the best solution for those who release with fingers and anyone that doesn’t use a drop-away arrow rest. However, a stiff vane is ideal for release aid shooters who use a drop-away arrow rest. Give stiff fletching and try – it will improve your accuracy.
Mon 5 Feb 2007
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Hand placement: Placing your hand on the grip is not a simple task that should be tak
